Hokkaido’s legends are as deep as its snow. And while some of the lesser-known spots are still flying under the radar, Westerners are starting to discover their magic—even on the famous Hokkaido Powder Belt. But then there’s Tohoku and the northern prefectures. The land skiers and snowboarders forgot. Remote and tucked away among mature birch trees, this area gets the same epic snow as Niseko, just with a bit less steep terrain. Does that matter when you’ve got the mountains all to yourself? Not really. Leading the charge in Japan’s unique powder experience is Anaba Lodge and the Ani Ski Resort.
A Passion Project
Our good friends at Japan Ski Tours have been absolutely crushing it with their storm chaser and cultural immersion tours, all made possible through the Indy Pass. As many know, Japan’s population has been shrinking, especially in rural areas with Akita leading the charge. Luke and Brent stumbled upon Ani Ski Resort and found a forgotten, dilapidated lodge sitting empty for nearly a decade, just half a mile from the resort. Seeing a unique opportunity, they teamed up with the local government, and with plenty of elbow grease, brought the lodge back to life. Today, that once-forgotten spot is the bright and welcoming Anaba Lodge.
The Secret Lodge for Powder Hounds
The word “Anaba” in Japanese means “hidden gem” or “secret spot,” and that’s exactly what it is. Anaba Lodge sits in a quiet cul-de-sac, nestled next to a cozy ski area that offers access to some legit terrain—if you’re willing to put in the effort. And at the gates of this magical place, you’ll find Greg and Ami.
Greg is an energetic, outgoing Australian ex-pat who brings the heat, serving up delicious breakfasts and dinners while entertaining you with stories from his colorful past. If you’re lucky (or offer to buy him a drink), he’ll serenade you with his guitar and a never-ending setlist. Ami, on the other hand, is the calm and caring force that keeps everything running smoothly. Always on the move, her warm smile lights up the room, and she goes above and beyond to make sure your stay is perfect. Together, they make the ultimate power couple, keeping the lodge running like a well-oiled machine.
Accommodations
When you walk in, you’ll find the check-in area on the first floor. To the left, there’s a storage room where you can stash your gear and get ready for the day ahead. Keep heading past the check-in desk, and you’ll hit the common area. Here, you’ll enter an open concept layout featuring comfy couches around a TV playing ski flicks, a dining area where dinner’s served family-style, and the cozy “Foggy Goggle” bar. This is the spot where everyone hangs out to chat about the day’s adventures and connect with fellow travelers from around the world. While alcohol isn’t included in your lodging price, the drinks are priced just right—so you can unwind without feeling guilty.
Guest Rooms
Head up to the second floor, and you’ll find six rooms in two different layouts. Jaime and I stayed in a standard room which contains two twin beds, and there was more than enough space for all our gear. Plus, the beds were super comfy. Our buddy John LaConte stayed in one of the Deluxe Twin Rooms, and he said it felt more like a suite—plenty of space to spread out and relax.
A Bit About the Bathrooms
Even though the bathrooms are shared, they’re designed with comfort in mind and kept in top shape, giving you a bit of a luxury feel. Each shower has its own separate changing area, and they’re spacious—tall and wide enough to fit even my 6’3″ frame with ease.
Why We Call It Baldface on A Budget
The lodge and Ani Ski Resort reminded us of our experiences of Baldface Lodge, but on a smaller, cozier scale. It’s the kind of place where you can kick back, relax in standard bedrooms with shared bathrooms, and, of course, eat incredible food. Speaking of food, Greg’s cooking skills really shine during dinner. The first night, we had the best spring rolls I’ve ever had—crunchy yet light, packed with the perfect amount of veggies. That was followed by a delicious Indian chicken tikka dish with rice and flavorful greens—all made from scratch. And then there’s the skiing… instead of a snowcat like Baldface, here it’s all lift-accessed backcountry fun.
Ski Area? More Like Lift Accessed Backcountry
At first glance, Ani Ski Resort might seem a bit underwhelming. The trail map shows just five runs and three lifts. Four of those runs pretty much follow the main gondola down. It looks like it could be fun for a day, but for three days? Little did we know, the real treasure lies beyond the boundaries. We were about to discover just how much more there was to explore at this Indy Pass nugget.
Our Guide to the POW!
Cyril was our guide for the three days we explored the area, and right from the start, we hit it off. His understated, quirky sense of humor made him easy to like. With the classic guide build—a tall, lean frame from years of climbing mountains around the world, including his home country of Norway. He was the perfect fit for us and the job ahead. Cyril spent a decade guiding in Hokkaido and now helps map out the unknown terrain around Ani Ski Resort. As a snowboarder, he’s one of the smoothest I’ve ever seen. Watching him ride was like watching water flow down a mountain—jumping when needed or gliding effortlessly over obstacles, like a raven soaring over the snow.
All You Need For A Ski Area
When we arrived at Ani Ski Resort, the parking lot was small—maybe enough for a few hundred cars, tops. The base is simple and no-frills. The main gondola building has everything you need: a restaurant, gift shop, coffee spot, and the ticket office. We grabbed our tickets for the day using our Indy Pass and were ready to go.
Whistler of the Early 80s
The gondola itself feels like a throwback to the ’80s, but like everything in Japan, it’s been well-maintained. After slipping on our snowboard “condoms,” we step in and slowly rise nearly 2,000 vertical feet from the valley to the top. Stepping off the gondola, the view immediately takes you back to what Whistler must’ve looked like in the early ’80s. Beyond the valley where Anaba Lodge sits, huge avalanche slopes and mountain ranges stretch out in the distance, peeking through the wispy clouds that seem ready to dump fresh snow at any moment.
Skittles – Taste the Rainbow
Venturing past the ski boundary, you’re instantly transported into a world of pure, unadulterated powder. The resort’s inbounds terrain is fun, but what really sets this place apart is the massive amount of backcountry terrain you can access.
One of the standout backcountry lines we did is called Skittles. As the name suggests, it’s a little bit of everything that makes Japan’s powder so legendary. Starting from a wide open ridgeline, you quickly drop into a massive slope dotted with classic Birch trees. Then, you glide through a fun set of boulders, perfect for launching into fresh powder pockets. From there, you’re met with a big face where you can really let loose on your pow sticks and bounce your way down the slope of goodness.
Caveat Emptor – Buyer Beware
When Brent, co-owner of Japan Ski Tours, first showed up, there was barely any info about the area. So, before the mountain even opened, he had to map out all the potential routes for visitors. A lot of the best runs aren’t nice, clean paths that just roll you back to the resort—they’re legit backcountry lines that can quickly put you in a sketchy situation if you’re not careful. I learned pretty fast that what starts as a chill slope can drop into a steep gully, with hidden terrain traps and flowing water underneath. Not the kind of stuff you want to get stuck in.
Glide Avalanches
Another risk is glide avalanches, where big cracks form after a pause in the snow and then fill in with the next storm. An unaware rider could ride straight into one of those cracks, dropping 20 to 30 feet, risking injury—or worse, suffocation. Hiring a local guide is the key to staying safe and making sure you don’t end up in one of these gnarly spots.
Don’t Worry if You See Crowds
When you start your day, it might look busy if you’re there on a weekend. But don’t be fooled, it’s not as crowded as it seems. One of Ani’s cool quirks is that a lot of the people hopping on the gondola aren’t there to ski. They’re heading up to snowshoe through the “Snow Monsters” at the summit. And we’re not talking short little jaunts here either. These are long treks that take you to shrines nestled on the mountainsides, with stunning views of the surrounding peaks. The “Snow Monsters” themselves are similar to the snow ghosts you’ll find in the States—just a whole different vibe at the top.
How Much it Costs
Depending on when you visit, a standard room can cost as little as $90 USD a night during the off-season, and during peak season weekends, it can go up to $200—plus, with both options including breakfast AND dinner. If you want to hire a guide, it’ll run you ~ $510-$680 USD per day, but you can split the cost with up to five people. Lift tickets at Ani Ski Resort are only $30 a day, and you can snag a discount through the lodge. Oh, and if you have an Indy Pass, Ani is on it!
Worth the Price of Admission?
Absolutely. In fact, three days wasn’t nearly enough. The sweet spot would be to spend five days with a day off in between to recharge. While Hokkaido has already been discovered by the Chinese and Westerners, Tohoku is the next hidden gem for those craving untouched JaPow. It’s a place so deep in the snow, away from the crowds and chaos, that it feels like a whole other world.
