No matter how many of Lake Tahoe’s attractions you’ve enjoyed, seeing them in different ways provides a refreshing perspective. We’ve experienced Emerald Bay in the winter via backcountry skiing its surrounding peaks. Taken in its beauty from Inspiration Point. But one way we haven’t yet explored it is by taking an Emerald Bay cruise. Combining my love for classic boats, Jaime and I booked a spot on Cruise Tahoe.
Getting into the Mood
The cool thing about Cruise Tahoe’s Emerald Bay Cruise is that it includes a private tour of Vikingsholm Castle as part of the price of admission. The Tahoe is a classic in the truest sense. Built in 1950, this custom wooden high-speed cruiser was first owned by E.B. Scott, who authored “The Saga of Lake Tahoe.”
A Taste of “Old Tahoe”
Taking the long walk to the boat, we were welcomed warmly by the crew. Stepping over its mahogany railing, I feel as if I’m being transported through a time portal to another era in Tahoe’s history. It felt fitting to embark on a journey to the iconic Vikingsholm Castle, built in 1929, aboard this well-kept piece of history itself. When boats like this were the primary mode of transport around the lake, not cars.
Cool Lake Breeze
As the engine rumbled quietly underneath us, we glided gently through the channel and out onto the big waters of Lake Tahoe. Even on a warm summer day, the air on the water is refreshing—a respite from the heat of the day. I now understand why so many people hop on a boat to take in the Sierra’s crowning jewel.
Big Views Everywhere
Surveying the landscape all around us, the first thing I noticed was that the vegetation was the greenest I’d ever seen. The north side of Tahoe Mountain, a fun South Lake Tahoe MTB trail network, looked like a Chia pet with its green fuzz. My eyes then settled on Mount Tallac. It loomed over the waters, reminding me that it was still the king of the south shore. Its famous chutes and glades now green instead of winter white.
Matchbox Cars Showcase
Continuing our journey westward, I spotted a train of Matchbox-sized cars ascending the ridgeline that divides Emerald Bay from the lesser-known Cascade Lake. The size of the cars highlighted just how big Lake Tahoe is. And while Cascade and its sibling, Fallen Leaf Lake, were formed in the same way as Emerald Bay, only Emerald Bay became connected to Lake Tahoe.
Fish Hawks Ahoy!
Veering left, or turning to port in boating language, we entered the iconic bay. The captain, over the speaker, pointed out an osprey nest to our left that overlooked the bay. I could only imagine being those birds. Like royalty, they overlook their kingdom, away from everyone. Their vision so perfect they can spot a fish underwater from up to 130 feet in height and gracefully dive into the water to capture it. That’s like you seeing a coin from the end of a soccer field!
The Hidden Castle
Gliding around the only island in Lake Tahoe, home to the dramatic Vikingsholm’s tea house, the castle appears. Instead of proudly showcasing itself, Vikingsholm Castle shrouds itself among giant old-growth pines, as if bashful to reveal its beauty.
Arriving How Lora Knight Would Have
Smoothly landing at the pier, my mind drifted back to the era when Lora Knight built this home. Spending fifteen summers here, she always arrived in her wooden Chris Craft Valkyrie, and today we were arriving in the same way she would’ve seen it.
Hugging Nature… Literally
Disembarking from our craft, we strolled off the beach and into the shade of the towering ponderosas, cedars, and red firs which have existed here before there was even a Vikingsholm. Frank Lloyd Wright may have designed buildings to embrace their surroundings, but Vikingsholm takes it a step further.
When Lora laid her eyes on the fjord-like location of Emerald Bay, she was inspired to have her summer home built in a Scandinavian design. And to this day, it’s considered one of the finest examples of it in the United States.
Memories of my Grandma
It reminded me of all the photos of Lithuania that my grandmother showed me—structures embracing their natural surroundings and becoming part of them. Lora made sure that when her summer home was built, not a single tree was cut down. Some stood so close, as if they were the ancient guardians protecting it from inclement weather. Part of the roof is made of earth so that wildflowers and grasses can grow on it.
A Peek Inside
As the back door opened, we were ushered in by a dedicated docent. Staying true to the understated theme, the interior is modest yet luxurious at the same time. For example, instead of marble floors and golden staircases, each room showcases woodworking in all its styles and techniques. The detail in the workmanship of each piece of wood would have made my grandparents smile. Stained glass windows in the stairway filtered in light with color, as if you were in a cathedral in Norway.
17th Century?!?
Then there is the furniture, which was acquired from Lora Knight’s travels around the world. The AVERAGE age of the pieces adorned inside this building is from the 17th century, with some dating back to even the 13th century!
Snacks and Philosophy
Roaring back on the cruise with the sun setting, I recounted the three-hour tour over a smorgasbord of cheeses, meats, and veggies provided. I’d visited Vikingsholm before on foot, but visiting by boat felt “right”—as if Emerald Bay were a clamshell opening up to me and Vikingsholm was its pearl. It was how visitors and Lora herself came to visit—a chance to catch a glimpse of what the era was like in the early twentieth century.
The “Other” Famous Lodge
Another historic building from the 1930s to take in via boat is the Thunderbird Lodge, located on the East Shore of Lake Tahoe. Compared to the naturalistic views of Lora Knight, Captain George Whittel Jr’s “castle” offers a glimpse into the lives of the rich and famous of that era. Explore secret tunnels, hear about his eccentric lifestyle, and, most of all, marvel at the exquisite elements created by prominent architect Frederic DeLongchamps. Cruise Tahoe also offers a Thunderbird Lodge tour & cruise.
