Our Experience at White Grizzly: Where the Skiing Bears Roam

In nearly every corner of North America, skiing and snowboarding have been tamed. Even legendary spots like Jackson Hole and Big Sky are starting to feel more like Disneyland than true adventure. Nearly a decade later, we’ve found one place that still carries a raw, untamed spirit. A region where the consequences are real, and the terrain demands your full respect. This ain’t bumper bowling. You have to bring your A game. Welcome to interior British Columbia or as some like to call it The Powder Highway. And when it comes to snowcat operations, there is one name that pushes the limits: White Grizzly Cat skiing. The apex predator of cat skiing.

Driving north from the fun and funky town of Nelson, we randomly tune into the local station, Kootenay Co-op Radio 93.5 FM. It’s playing some of the most eclectic music I’ve heard in decades, and a smile creeps across my face. Little do I know that it’s the perfect soundtrack to symbolize our experience at White Grizzly cat skiing.

Road to Winter’s Last Hold

Outside the truck, the two lane road clings to the edge of the long, narrow Kootenay Lake as we wind our way north. A few homes are scattered along the shoreline, but for the most part, it is thick pine forests that dominate the landscape, occasionally opening up to massive views of the surrounding mountains.

Down here at just 1,800 feet, winter feels like it’s starting to loosen its grip. It is late March, after all. But towering above us, the peaks stretch beyond 7,000+ feet—and up there, it is still very much winter. That is where we are headed. That is where we will be skiing.

Where the Pavement Ends

We leave the pavement behind and pull up to the lodge, tucked in a small clearing surrounded by thick pines. As I open the door, a wave of invigorating forest air hits me. It instantly takes me back to the woods of Michigan. Just beyond the dark forest you know are peaks that jut straight up, hinting how big the terrain is up high.

The moment you step inside, you’re greeted by the boot room. Each guest has their own bag, beacon, and cubby to stash gear for the trip. As you walk down the hallway, the pine floor creaks under your feet, adding to the rustic charm.

A Warm Welcome in the Woods

You soon enter the lounging area, which feels like a laid back hunting lodge, but everyone here is chasing something different: powder. A beautiful stone chimney rises from the center, its fireplace crackling with warmth. Rough cut logs frame the room, a clear reminder that you are deep in the woods.

Just beyond is the main living area, where evenings are spent unwinding and swapping stories. The vibe feels more like a cozy clubhouse, and at the center of it all, that same fireplace brings people together with its welcoming glow.

In the back, the chef is already at work preparing dinner, filling the space with mouthwatering aromas. Conversations hum softly in the background. A quiet sense of calm settles over the room.

Craig Kelly Was Here

As I scan the walls covered in photos of mountains, skiers, and snowboarders, one image in particular grabs my attention. It looks like Craig Kelly. Just then, I hear a voice behind me say, “That is Craig Kelly.”

I turn around to see one of the Assistant Lodge Managers, Jack Mumford, smiling as he introduces himself. As we chat, he explains to me that Craig was in the process of becoming a guide and was exploring the tenure. Imagining the possibilities. I’m in awe. This isn’t just a catskiing operation. It’s a place where legends once rode. Looking around, it truly feels like we are standing among giants.

Story Behind White Grizzly

As we settle in with a pint, I meet the owners of White Grizzly Cat skiing. Cyrus, a laid-back Londoner and former tail guide, saw an opportunity when COVID forced the lodge to shut down. Along with Tom, another Brit, and three silent partners, they took over management of White Grizzly.

Calm and focused, Cyrus has a relaxed, positive energy that puts you at ease. He listens more than he micromanages, empowering his team to exceed expectations.

Tom is a calm and focused gentleman with the intensity of Tom Hardy and the smooth charm of Michael Caine. The first three years were challenging as he worked to get operations running smoothly—so much so, he rarely had time to enjoy the experience himself. With operations now running the way he wants them, he’ll join us one day to sample his product.

Into the Goat Range

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we pile into the van and head up what’s a logging road in summer. We bounce and sway through some of the thickest pine forest I’ve ever seen. About 30 minutes in, we reach the snow line and there it is: our ride for the day, the snowcat, humming quietly under a fresh coat of snow.

Climbing aboard, we’re welcomed by huge windows and big, comfy bucket seats. With a quick check, the cat growls to life and starts climbing toward our first stop: a short avalanche safety course to make sure everyone’s ready, just in case.

Training complete, we hop back in and continue the ascent. The road steepens dramatically so much so our backs press into the seats. As we crest a ridge, the sun bursts through the windows, lighting up towering, snow-covered peaks all around us.

We swing open the door and are instantly hit with a blast of crisp mountain air. Stepping out, we take in the scene. There it is… the Goat Range in all its rugged glory. The peaks above us are massive, steep, and often too avalanche-prone for skiing. Today, we’re about to drop into a giant bowl nestled just below them.

From Rollers to Roars: The Magic of Shake n’ Bake

Dropping in one by one, we carve big, playful turns into a wide-open bowl filled with natural whales. They’re perfect for launching off or slashing with style. As we approach the final drop, our group regathers. The lead guide dives in and quickly vanishes from view. A crackle on the radio comes through: we’re clear to go, one at a time.

A few skiers go ahead, disappearing into the terrain. Then it’s my turn.

I take a deep breath, point my snowboard downhill, and roll over the edge unsure of what’s beyond. The terrain opens up into a steep, 30-plus degree pitch dotted with just a few scattered trees. I lean back, making huge, arcing turns as fast as I can, snow billowing in my wake. It’s pure joy.

Reaching the bottom, I can’t help but yell, “Now THAT’S what I’m talkin’ about!”

Turning back, I watch the rest of the crew charge the face. Everyone’s sending it with everything they’ve got. When my buddy Aaron pulls up next to me, he’s grinning ear to ear.

“I get why they call that run Shake n’ Bake,” he says, catching his breath. “That was hands down my favorite run ever! I’d lap that all day.”

Enter the Grizzly Terrain: Steep, Deep, and Technical

Terrain Facts

Average day: 6-7 runs averaging between 10,000+ vertical feet or more depending on your crew
Slopes: Primarily northeast facing legit 30-45 degree pitches – helps it stay cold and dry even late season
Cat ski area: 11,000 acres

As we continue exploring the White Grizzly cat skiing terrain, the name really starts to make sense. From a distance, a grizzly bear seems calm… but get closer, and its raw power and intensity comes alive. Many of the runs here start off mellow, easygoing, even inviting, but don’t let your guard down. They quickly transform, growling with steep pitches, tight trees, and deep pow that demand quick thinking and fast feet.

Take “Big Woody” for example. It is the definition of a classic, old school White Grizzly run. A steep, technical tree line with tight corridors and small cliff bands you can flow through. Just when you think it is letting up, the trail rolls into another steep, gladed section, barely wide enough to shred through, but that is what makes it so fun. It feels like Mario Bros meets skiing, leaping and bouncing through the trees like you are collecting gold coins and launching out of pipes. Pure joy.

While White Grizzly’s bread and butter is glade skiing, they mix in pockets of open terrain and playful features, classic Kootenay pillow lines that invite you to link turns, pop off, and get creative.

What Makes White Grizzly Special… Beyond the Skiing

It’s the little things that make White Grizzly truly special. They genuinely care about your experience. The vibe feels like one big team. Dinners are family style, with everyone from guests to guides sharing the same meal together. After a day of riding, you’ll be greeted with apps, which might be a flavorful soup, nachos, or some tasty chicken wings.

What really stands out is how much they go out of their way to accommodate everyone’s dietary needs. For example, Jaime’s gluten allergy wasn’t just managed. It was handled with such care that she got to enjoy a custom dessert and gluten free bread, making her feel included and well cared for.

Backcountry Confidence: How White Grizzly Guides Keep You Safe

Safety is key when venturing into the backcountry, and the guides at White Grizzly far exceeded my expectations. Our lead guide, Pate, took the time each evening to give us a detailed overview of the snow conditions and what to expect the next day. On the snow, he didn’t just lead us—he taught us how to read the mountain. For example, he pointed out that one face was baked hard while the other had soft, dry snow perfect for riding.

He balanced keeping us safe with making sure we had a fantastic time. Managing a group of more than a dozen people can be tricky, but he skillfully kept us all together like herding snow leopards.

One Small Bump

The only part of the experience that felt a bit off was the checkout process. Unlike most cat ski operations where you receive a receipt and can add a tip at your discretion, White Grizzly’s approach was a bit more personal. Each group was asked to step into the manager’s office to finalize things and voice out loud how much they’re tipping, which felt a little formal, almost like being called into a meeting you weren’t expecting.

Good news: Based on guest feedback, White Grizzly has completely revamped the checkout experience for the 2025/26 season. Guests will no longer need to visit the manager’s office, making the process smoother, more comfortable, and in line with modern expectations.

As we toss our bags into the truck and glance back at the lodge, surrounded by vibrant green firs and spruce, a few questions start to swirl in my mind. Did it really snow like that? Did we actually ride all that powder? Was it all just a dream? Yes. Yes, it happened. And yes it was an experience unlike any other.