I remember vividly standing in the parking lot of Nelson BC’s Whitewater Ski Resort, looking up at the surrounding mountains. It felt like Mother Nature’s Sistine Chapel for skiing and snowboarding. And the town below? A spellbinding mixture of free-thinking hippies and hardworking lumberjacks. Only on the Powder Highway could you find a place that is so connected to the wild and yet feel plugged into what’s going on NOW. After 10 years, we return to Nelson and its home mountain, Whitewater Ski Resort. Yes, it’s changed, but the soul of Nelson BC skiing is still intact and shining as bright as ever.
Nelson Grows Up but Keeps Its Soul
The first thing we noticed as we pulled into Nelson looking out over the skyline and down the main drag is it felt like the city had grown into itself. It didn’t feel like it expanded but rather grown into itself. Old buildings were refurbished. New mid-rise apartment complexes popped up that didn’t exist before. And yet surrounding the town the hills were still covered in trees offering wilderness. All the institutions like the Hume Hotel, Oso Negro and the Yellow Deli still existed alongside new restaurants such as Marzano’s.
Building That Defines Nelson’s Comeback
One building in particular showed how far Nelson has come, and it’s where we stayed: the Stirling Suites. This place is more than a hotel. It is a dream brought to life. Marika and Elon grew up in Nelson, and since childhood, Elon imagined restoring this historic building.
Built in 1914 for single miners, it once held tiny rooms, shared bathrooms, and little more than a bed and a bowl of water. Eight decades later, it was still home to men down on their luck. When Elon bought it, he restored each floor with care, respecting its history while helping every resident land on their feet.
Now the suites are huge, modern, and designed for long stays. Full kitchens, fresh air systems, and even in-unit washers and dryers make it feel like home.
The Legend of Whitewater Ski Resort
Enough about Nelson. What about the skiing? Whitewater ski resort may be only 25 minutes from downtown, but it feels like a completely different world. Nelson sits at 1,755 feet and sees about 64 inches of snow each year. Up on the mountain, Whitewater gets absolutely buried with more than 400+ inches.
True to its name, the resort usually sits on the favorable side of the atmospheric river, earning that “Whitewater” reputation. But unlike Tahoe or the Pacific Northwest, it is far enough inland that their type of snow falls lighter and drier. Think more like Utah powder, not the heavy, wet concrete you get in a maritime snowpack. On our last trip we visited during their worst winter in decades and yet we still had a blast. This time though, I got to experience the famous snow and I have to tell you it lives up to its name.
Still Local and Still True to This
Stepping out of the truck, I pause and let it all soak in. Somehow, I’m just as awestruck as the very first time I rolled up here, maybe even more. The peaks are playing peek a boo through pockets of clouds, showing off just enough to remind me why this place is magic.
Unlike so many ski resorts that traded character for ski in ski out condos, Whitewater still has zero on site lodging and honestly, it probably never will. I grin. That’s exactly why I love Mt. Baker and why I’ve always called it the church of snowboarding in the Lower 48. Whitewater? This is Canada’s cathedral of Shralpinism.
Every direction I look, steep 30 plus degree shots rise out of the valley, spines stacked like shark teeth, Kootenay pillows begging to be launched, cliff bands stitched into the landscape like some backcountry playground. And everyone I meet, whether in the parking lot or on the lift, feels like a true local. Not “I live three hours away” local. I mean Nelson local.
Volcom’s old motto “Still True To This” pops into my head. And later, I learn why the vibe feels so authentic. Out of a population of about 11,000, roughly 4,000 Nelsonites buy a season pass every year. Nearly 80 percent of Whitewater’s business comes from passholders who call this place home. No wonder the mountain feels so deeply rooted in its community.
Front Row Seat to Whitewater’s Stoke
Grabbing our lift tickets, we head straight for the Summit lift. As it carried us out of the basin, I got my first real taste of the ski culture that thrives here. Below us, the “Hollywood line” was buzzing like a full blown freeride competition. Young local kids were sending it, each trying to outdo the last. Massive 360s off cliffs. A random snowboarder throwing a huge, slow front flip off a Kootenay boulder at mach ten, stomping it perfectly. Every clean landing exploded into hoots and hollers from friends and riders on the lift.
And when someone did crash, it was spectacular. Think giant cartwheels down the face or a full body splat into Whitewater’s bottomless powder. Everywhere you looked, people were high fiving, cheering each other on, and spreading the stoke of gravity fueled fun. The energy was absolutely infectious.
Whitewater’s Challenge: Explore the Playground
You better have your legs in shape because Whitewater’s terrain doesn’t take it easy. The runs naturally flow fall line, so with very little traversing and almost no lines, you’re quickly back on the lift.
But what makes Whitewater truly special isn’t just its 2,367 acres or 2,044 vertical feet of skiing. The terrain is a giant playground for skiers and snowboarders, and it’s up to you to create your own adventure. Some lifts get you nearly to the top, but if you want to ski the peaks, you have to hike. While the main trails are marked, exploring off-piste requires a little curiosity and a sense of wanderlust. And yet it requires a bit of caution since some areas feature cliff bands or chutes that need to be navigated.
Regardless of your skill level, expect to be pushed just outside your comfort zone in a good way, with steeper pitches than the trail ratings might suggest. And even though it does offer some beginner and intermediate trails, it’s an expert’s mountain at heart. More than 64 percent of the terrain is rated difficult or expert.
Backcountry Adventures at Whitewater
Speaking of a giant playground, one of Whitewater’s best qualities is its easy access to the backcountry. They even offer one ride tickets for 35 dollars to help you reach certain gates. That does not mean it is safe or recommended though. With limited knowledge of the snowpack, we highly recommend playing it safe and booking a day with a local backcountry guide.
We used Kootenay Backcountry Guides and loved them. Our guide helped us find zones that no one else was skiing, provided an easier skintrack, and most importantly, kept us clear of the touchy snowpack. We even saw dinner plate slides, which if we had been in avalanche terrain, could have put us in serious trouble.
And while it was “old man hippy pow,” the terrain was incredibly fun. It included classic Kootenay pillows, featuring a variety of boulders, rocks, and other features to leap off.
Fresh Tracks Café: Whitewater’s Culinary Must Have
Calling Whitewater’s food offerings cafeteria food is a disservice. Fresh Tracks Café is an attraction in its own right. Back when the original owner, Shelley Adams, was running the resort, her recipes were so phenomenal that they helped launch her career as an award-winning cookbook author, with seven cookbooks to her name. That tradition of providing high-quality meals that cover all dietary needs still stands strong today.
And talk about stepping up their game. On our last visit, dishes were served on paper plates like a typical cafeteria. This time, each dish was given the presentation it deserved. The Bahn Mi came on a perfectly warmed bun, topped with the most perfectly cooked pork. The only thing that might have made it better was a few more jalapenos to kick up the heat.
The pleasant surprise was the quinoa salad. Normally served cold, dense, and almost flavorless, Whitewater’s version was tender with the consistency of sticky rice and a light, brothy finish. And the tofu was like meat—expertly grilled and seasoned to perfection.
