We get it. For most skiers and snowboarders soul doesn’t matter. It’s about who’s the biggest. Which resort gets the most powder. Or even which one has the fastest lifts. Maybe it’s because we’re getting older, but that’s not what we care about anymore. We search for experiences that are different and more soulful. We’d rather savor a sick line that we had to hike to instead of lift bonging a high-speed racking up vertical. While many things have changed over the years, the soul of skiing is still alive and well when you ski Taos.
The Iconic Sign
If there’s one thing that’s burned into memory after visiting Taos, it’s the sign placed at the entrance of the village. It reads the following:
“DON’T PANIC! YOU’RE LOOKING AT ONLY 1/30 OF TAOS SKI VALLEY.”
The original goal in the 1960’s was to reduce the anxiety for beginners and intermediates staring up at the daunting Al’s Run and Mineshaft. Instead, it got me excited at the prospect of what was to come. Only 1/30th?!? Jeez… that’s a lot of terrain. I couldn’t wait to get on the slopes.
A Playground for Every Skier’s Dream
Riding the high-speed Lift #1 up the mountain, our jaws drop at the first glimpse of the upper mountain. It’s like a giant playground. Everywhere you look, the terrain is begging to be ridden. To the right, steep chutes bring back memories of classic ski films from childhood. Below, mellow groomers curve with the mountain’s shape, begging for you to carve massive turns down them.
More Than Numbers: The True Magic of Taos
For the engineering minded out there, don’t get hung up on acreage or snowfall stats. On paper, Taos clocks in at 1,294 acres and averages 300 inches of snow a year, but it’s how the mountain skis that really matters. The terrain naturally flows, dividing each trail so that once you drop in, you’re committed all the way to the bottom.
And then there’s the snow. Taos gets some of the lightest, fluffiest powder we’ve ever ridden. With mostly north facing slopes and a base elevation over 9,300 feet, every flake that falls stays in prime condition. Somehow, this mountain packs more variety and vertical into its 1,300 acres than some 4,000-acre resorts we’ve visited. We’ve heard it straight from the locals even after a lifetime on these slopes, they still haven’t skied all of its 110 trails.
Why Taos Terrain Stands Apart
We’ve skied and snowboarded all over North America and even Japan, but Taos is hands down Jaime’s favorite. Nothing else comes close. Everything is an adventure. Each run has its own feel and character. Unlike other resorts full of long traverses and cat tracks (you know who you are), Taos just moves. Once you drop in, the mountain’s natural topography carries you from one zone to the next in a way that feels effortless.
The layout also naturally separates terrain by ability. The most challenging lines sit up top, and they even come with a price of admission: a 15 to 20 minute hike along the ridgeline to reach the steepest shots, with Kachina Peak being the only exception. This setup means only the most dedicated skiers and riders make the trek, keeping the snow quality fresh for days, even weeks, after a storm.
For Experts Who Crave Bold Lines: Taos Delivers
Taos lives up to its reputation as an expert’s mountain. Nearly 51 percent of the terrain is rated expert, and on average, it’s as steep or steeper as anywhere we’ve skied in North America. If you’re into perfectly spaced glades, head for Wild West Glades because they never disappoint. Craving steep, narrow chutes that will have you straight lining a thousand vertical feet down a sustained 30+ degree pitch? Anything off the West Basin Ridge will crank the puck factor up to eleven.
We could go on and on about all the tasty lines Taos serves up, just know this, you won’t be disappointed.
Blue Runs, Glades & Groomers for Advanced Riders
Skiers and riders at this level will be in heaven at Taos. Lift 8 offers smooth, banked groomers perfect for ripping turns, like on Lower Stauffenberg. If you’re after well-spaced glades, head to Walkyrie’s Glade off Lift 7, along with plenty of other fun trails to explore. Honestly, anything marked blue is guaranteed to be a good time.
Where to Find Beginner-Friendly Runs and Chill Spots
Skiing Taos is an experience earned, and beginners should be prepared for a challenge. That said, there are still a few areas beginners can enjoy. Honeysuckle winds its way down to the backside, where you can grab a refreshment at the Bavarian. Off Lift 1, White Feather offers a roaming trail that makes its way back down to the front.
While there is some beginner terrain at Taos, if it’s your first time skiing or snowboarding, consider starting at Red River or Angel Fire. You’ll find more space, a relaxed atmosphere, and plenty of room to hone your skills before graduating to Taos.
Better Not Bigger
Taos Ski Valley sits at the headwaters of the Hondo River, making expansion nearly impossible. Instead, the resort focuses on becoming better, not bigger. That’s been through things like modernizing dining at the Bavarian and Phoenix Grill. Refining the lodging experience with The Blake, and investing in high-capacity snowmaking that opens more terrain early in the season. Lift upgrades, like the high-speed Lift 1, get visitors to the slopes faster, while new gladed terrain such as Dadou’s adds more variety. Behind the scenes, innovations like North America’s first 100 percent electric snow groomer quietly keep the mountain sustainable. As COO John Kelly explained, Taos’ B Corp certification reflects a philosophy of thinking beyond today, much like the Iroquois idea of considering the impact on seven generations. Every change respects the land and the community that has called it home for centuries.
The Kachina Lift
The installation of the Kachina Lift stirred some debate among locals, who loved that it once took real effort to ski it. But we get it—it had to happen. Most visitors don’t want to hike forty-five minutes to reach terrain this epic. Stand on those slopes after a fresh storm and the steep complex lines feel impossibly deep, while after weeks without snow, moguls the size of VW Bugs can turn it into an even more technical playground. True to form, Taos walks the fine line between keeping locals and visitors happy: ski patrol often lets the lift stand still after storms, giving purists a chance to earn it the old-fashioned way. This is Taos pushing the experience forward while protecting the soul of the mountain.
When To Go
Although its annual snowfall is similar to Colorado’s ski resorts, Taos Ski Valley’s storm track is independent and often more volatile. The mountain has some steep terrain, which means it needs a solid snowpack before much of the good stuff can be skied. Locals told us the magic number is about 60 inches or five feet, sometimes reached as early as Christmas. Once that base is established, snow preservation is phenomenal, and the slopes ski well throughout the season. If any mountain is a must during an El Nino winter, it’s Taos. It’s the ONLY ski area favored in North America to get hammered with snow. And March is hard to beat: the snowpack is at its deepest, the sun is higher in the sky, and it is the snowiest month of the season.
Where To Stay
Be forewarned the base of Taos Ski Valley is at a dizzyingly high 9,321’ above sea level. I still remember my only bout of altitude sickness in Telluride, and it’s no fun. Give your body a chance to acclimate by staying in the town of Taos (6,900’) for a day or two and drink plenty of fluids. From five star accommodations to two hundred year old B&Bs, here’s the best places to stay at on your next vacation.
Extend The Trip
Taos might be the king of the hill literally for New Mexico skiing but we’ll tell you that there’s much more to Taos Ski Areas Than Just Taos Ski Valley. We couldn’t believe how different each ski area is and the towns by them, such as Red River. For a full breakdown of each ski area in the state and what they offer, check out our New Mexico Ski Resorts Map & Overview Of Each Ski Area.
Unlike Anywhere
People who ski Taos know that the resort is home to some incredible skiing. Along with this world class mountain, it blends seamlessly with the local culture and a nice helping dish of international flair. Founded by a passionate Swiss skier and surrounded by restaurants started by Frenchmen and Austrians, it has an Alps feel to it. And yet, you drive down to Taos and you’ll find a deep history of Spanish and Native cultures.
Describing this place, you would think it’s “trendy.” Far from it. Taos is what it is… an enigma wrapped in a mystery. Home to buildings where people have lived for more than a thousand years. An art colony. Ski Taos embraces their past and looks towards the future. Once you visit, you’ll get it. But until you do, it’s mere words.
You got it Alex. Well written piece! Thanks.
Patrick,
Appreciate it! 🙂
Awesome!
After living in Taos for 19 years, this article is spot on. Possibly the best that I have read that has provided the essence of the Taos ski area. The only thing he missed was the total absence of lines for the ski lifts.
Larry,
Aw shucks that really means a lot to me. I put my heart into every article and try my best to not just talk about a place in facts but the full experience and hearing that I got it spot in really means the world. I hope you have an amazing winter filled with pow refills and lots of smiles.
– Alex
Skied Taos in 2021 for my first time. Totally agree with your summary. I fell in Love ❤ with the Taos there is definitely a feel to this Mountain you must experience to appreciate. Just Something about the Taos Soul..??
Kenny,
Aw shucks Kenny thank you so much. It’s insane how the place plays on your heartstrings. I didn’t expect to be so enchanted by it after all these years of visiting more than a 100 resorts. I’m glad you got experience and keep the stoke alive.
Baloney. The new owner has completely turned tail on his promise to keep Taos Ski Valley as it was and make only necessary deferred improvements. It is increasingly like every other white bread ski resort; this year, thanks to mother nature, without snow.
Let’s see whether the St. Bernard survives the exploitation. The very person, Bacon, who said he’d change nothing is likely to ruin the St. Bernard–just as he did the Bavarian (via “improvements” to plant and menu)
over the past few years.
P.S. I’m a multi-year season passholder and have skied there since 1982.
I too hope nothing happens to the iconic St Bernard!!!
Went to Taos in April 73. Arrive at the base at 3.00 am. We put sleeping bags down in the parking lot and stared up at an unbelievable amount of stars. One say it snow a foot and a resort bar serve free beer because of it. It’s a fantastic area and looking up at Al’s run got the heart pumping.
I recently booked at trip for late Feb. I can’t wait to be enchanted at age 66 like I was at 18 by the skiing and the the town of Taos. Can’t wait!
Hey Mark,
That’s awesome! Thank you for sharing such an amazing memory. Unfortunately, I don’t think they serve free beer if it snow more than a foot anymore 🙂 But the skiing makes up for that. Be sure to get a Bizcochito (the state cookie) at Michael’s. They sell out quickly, so you might have to reserve a cookie but it’s worth it. Think sugar cookie meets a biscotti flavor.
Been skiing Taos for the last 20 years. Bought a place there 14 years ago to enjoy the summers as well as the unsurpassed skiing! Best article I have ever read that captures the true essence and flavor of the place. Unlike any place I’ve skied in America. You have to experience it to understand the vibe! Well done
Tad,
That means a lot and thanks for the kind words 🙂 You’re a lucky man to own property there. We’ll probably end up there in the long run as well. If we do, we’ll be sure to take some laps with you.
On my way tomorrow from Denver for the first time. This article has me even more pumped!
Hey Mike,
Be sure to tag us! Looking forward to hearing about your personal experience there. And remember it’s ALWAYS Christmas in New Mexico 😉 -> https://localfreshies.com/things-to-do-in-taos-nm/
Just got back from our annual ski trip to Taos. 2 years ago was our first time there and fell in love. I grew up skiing in the north east and Taos is on a whole other level. I actually tried snowboarding for the first time on that first trip and it was after a 20” dump, it was absolutely amazing. Taos is magical for sure
Hey Brian,
20″ will definitely help ensure that it’s magical. 🙂 Glad you had an awesome time and hope to experience this place on a powder day.
Can’t wait to return. I started skiing Taos in 1969 when Al’s Run had a Poma lift that could pick you right up off the ground at loading. In the years that followed they’d be so apologetic if there was a lift line, they served hot chocolate. There were hidden glass Porons of martini stashed at secret tree bases for the instructors emember to share with their class on the last day of ski week. Once the powder was skied out we’d hike Kachina Peak for more. The tree skiing too is incomparable. Yes,Taos had a soul! I plan to return for the first time since the lift to Kachina Peak was built and hope it’s everything I remember with the much needed upgrades! This was a great job capturing the essence of what makes Taos a one of a kind experience.
Alex, a good article related to this magical area. I grew up skiing the mountain and it never disappoints. The only real issue is that lift lines that were non-existent in the past are quickly growing. This past weekend was crazy at Lift 1 even at 10:30 am. While it’s nice to see the popularity of TSV increase, there does need to be better management of the demand. The issue being infrastructure. Lift 1 is the only high speed lift and once it gets wound up the slower lifts can’t handle the feed volume from Lift 1. It takes a few hours for that to happen. Call it local griping, but I don’t want to see it turn into Tahoe or Vail with one hour lift lines. Been there, done that.
– Dan
Hey Dan,
Sadly, I think with more people having a flexible schedule the lift lines at any great mountain like Taos are going to get longer. The reason Tahoe and Vail are so bad is because of how close they are two millions and millions of people. With that being said, I just can’t see Taos EVER having those issues unless Albuquerque becomes even bigger… or least we hope it won’t.
Agreed that lift lines are a new problem in recent years. While lift changes (replacing two chairs from the base with one) is part of the problem, a MUCH more significant contributor is Taos’ participation in the Ikon multi area pass ecosystem. Now skiers and boarders from the Denver area who’s season pass at their local areas might be an Ikon pass now have 7 days at Taos. Of course they pick our powder storm cycles to descend on us like locusts leading to lift lines like we’ve never seen before the Ikon pass. They’re additionally encouraged to come here because of the congestion on I-70 from Denver to Summit County and Vail where it can take longer to make that drive (even though it’s much closer) than to drive to Taos. Most locals want us out of Ikon to eliminate the deleterious effect on the skiing experience here. Mountain Collective worked much better and hopefully we will return to being Mountain Collective only.
Great article. Taos and Alta have the best terrain, vibes, and snow quality of anywhere I’ve skied. Taos is truly special, with some of the best terrain you can find anywhere in several domains: 1) steeps (West Basin, Hunziker), 2) big mountain (Kachina), 3) glades (Wild West, Ernie’s, Tresckow, Rhoda’s, Jean’s, Pierre’s, Sir Arnold Lunn, Castor), 4) moguls (Longhorn, Lorelei, Al’s, Spencer’s, Rhoda’s, Snakedance, Inferno), and groomers for long carving turns as the article mentioned.
Colorado seems to specialize a bit more (Steamboat for trees, CB or A-Basin for steeps, Mary Jane for moguls, Vail for wide open powder bowls), but Taos has it all and the SOUL too.
Every time I go back, I find new lines and powder stashes. This may be a myth, but one local told me the high desert sun actually sucks the moisture out of the snow, so even during sunny stretches the snow just gets more dry and chalky, while the north-facing high altitude terrain holds snow better than maybe anywhere.
Hey Andrew,
That quote about the sun and the snow is EXACTLY what I mean by the “soul” of Taos. Regardless if it’s true or not it’s the story behind it that makes it awesome. The more time I’ve spent there with its locals the more I’ve been blown away at the stories behind the mountain. Behind the city of Taos. My only regret is I didn’t visit it earlier in my life. 🙂